The Color of Metal

Photo courtesy of Gary Swank Jewelers

I have found that people’s understanding of the color of metals really runs the gamut of fact and fiction, so I’d like to take a couple of minutes here to clarify the options. The fine folks at Gary Swank Jewelers in Portland, Oregon have created the above photo which is, without a doubt, the most helpful visual I have found on the internet to date.

A few important distinctions are worth noting:

18KT Yellow vs. 14KT Yellow: Notice that the 18KT version is a visibly warmer gold. Many people prefer this warmth instead of the cooler 14KT. I actually prefer the 14KT look because it’s softer against my skin tone, and I think it is a less jarring contrast if you want to ‘mix your metals’ in terms of what rings you will wear together on your hand(s). 14KT is also slightly stronger and hardier, and is a little bit better for daily wear and tear.

18KT White vs. Platinum: Platinum used to be the ‘go-to’ metal for wedding and engagement sets. It used to be significantly more expensive, and therefore indicated the height of luxury and expense. These days, there is about a $200 difference per ounce of platinum versus gold, which makes them practically the same cost. So it is really a matter of taste and consideration of wear – as it wears and tarnishes, platinum will start to look a little gray, whereas 18KT White gold will start to soften into yellow.

What the hell is 14KT GREEN Gold?? I distinctly remember my first days in the industry ordering some castings for our designer who specified in his messy scrawl “18KT Green.” I felt certain this had to be a typo and spent half the morning trying to track him down to clarify. Lesson learned: not a typo. Green gold does, in fact, have a slightly greenish and therefore cooler tint to it, thanks to an alloy that mixes yellow gold with silver. When shopping for yellow gold jewelry, you will rarely encounter any piece that specifies the green nature of the gold – it will most likely be listed as yellow. It is simply good information to know when ordering custom pieces.

Gary Swank Jewelers have additional very helpful information regarding gold options on their website. Check them out!